Nitrogen (N):
Apply up to 250g per 100m2 (0.5 lbs. N / 1000 sq. ft.) per application every two months during the growing season. A good source is organic fertiliser products. In many parts of the south, seashore paspalum will go into winter dormancy. It does not require fertiliser during that period. Only fertilise your lawn when it is actively growing. The highest rates will be in the spring after greenup and early in the autumn season well before the first predicted frost. Begin fertilising about 1-2 weeks after spring regrowth begins. Do not apply more fertiliser than recommended here at one time, since you can get a growth surge in response to the fertiliser. This can lead to increased thatch production and predisposition to increased insect and/or disease activity.
If N deficiency is evidenced by yellowing of lower leaves, slow growth, or loss of stand density, more frequent (every 6 weeks) fertiliser applications can be made. Apply a total of 750g - 1500g (1.5 to 3 lbs.) total N per 100m2 (1,000 sq. ft.) on an annual basis.


Phosphorous (P):
Phosphorus is required for root development and plant growth. Good phosphorus nutrition is especially important during sprig or sod establishment. In some parts of the south, rates should be in relation to annual N application and are usually in the range of 500g (1 lb) phosphorus as P2O5 per year per 100m2 (1000 sq. ft.). However, where soil P levels can be high, it may not be necessary to add P to the lawn. Soil testing for amount of P in the soil is recommended. If your soil tests high for P, look for a fertiliser source with up to, but no more than, 2% P in the bag. Excessive phosphorus is a potential pollutant, so its use should be limited to those areas where it is truly lacking in the soil. In other parts of the southern areas, contact our Sea Isle sales representatives by clicking here for information regarding phosphorus application. Some areas may require applications 2-3 times annually to make sure this nutrient is available to the turfgrass roots.


Potassium (K):
Potassium is required by the turfgrass plant for root formation, root growth and persistence, wear tolerance, drought resistance, and disease resistance. Good potassium nutrition aids the plant in tolerating temperature extremes, as well as stress caused by traffic. Potassium deficiency is implicated in some turfgrass disease complexes, and it is generally recognised that adequate potassium fertility is important for good turfgrass health. Seashore paspalum will quickly use up potassium in the soil, thereby increasing the need for additional applied potassium. Look for a fertiliser with a high 3rd number on the bag, such as a 15-2-15 or 15-2-22. In high rainfall areas or after high rainfall events, addition of potassium would be recommended since this nutrient is quite mobile and will move readily with various water sources.


Minor elements:
Seashore paspalum will respond to minor element fertiliser applications if these elements are deficient in the soil. In areas with either high (>8.0) or low (<5.5) pH, micronutrients are sometimes not available for plant uptake. Micronutrients can be added by using a complete fertiliser. Application of iron will provide a quick green-up without promoting a growth surge. It is often beneficial to apply iron in the summer months rather than nitrogen so as not to promote shoot growth during rainy seasons. Magnesium is essential for good color retention, and manganese plus zinc are key nutrients for activating the salinity tolerance mechanism.



FERTILISER SPECIFICS:

1. Newly established lawns from sod:
An initial fertiliser could include organic sources applied preplant with the sod laid on top of this application. Fertilise when shoot growth begins (generally 7-10 days) with 250g - 500g (1/2 - 1 pound) of nitrogen per 100m2 (1000 square feet) in a complete fertiliser. An ideal fertiliser ratio would be a 1:2:3 N:P:K, with 1.5kg - 2.5kg (2.5 - 5 pounds) applied per 100m2 (1000 sq. ft.) for this initial application. This will provide extra phosphorous and potassium in relation to nitrogen. Try to keep nitrogen low in relation to phosphorous and potassium for this first fertiliser application. Subsequent fertiliser applications for established lawns should be based on response of the grass. If you apply high N rates, the grass will rapidly respond and you will be mowing more frequently. In addition, high N rates will dispose this grass to disease problems if irrigation or rainfall is excessive.

2. Newly established lawns from plugs:
Fertilise when you see new shoot growth (stolons or runners), about 7-10 days after planting, with 100g - 250g (1/4- 1/2 lb.) of N per 100m2 (1,000 square feet). The nutrient ratio should be 1:2:3 or 1:2:4 N:P:K for this initial application. Fertilise again with this same amount of fertiliser 2-3 weeks after the initial application.

3. Established lawns:
After your paspalum lawn is established, apply fertiliser every other month during the growing season. If you are applying a water soluble nitrogen source, do not apply more than 250g (1/2 lb.) of nitrogen per 100m2 (1,000 square feet) at any one application. If you are using a slow release nitrogen source, you may apply up to 500g (1 lb.) of nitrogen at any one time. Apply a total of 1kg - 1.5kg (2-3 lbs.) of total nitrogen throughout the growing season. Remember to base your lawn's phosphorus needs on soil test results. Look for a fertiliser that has equal or slightly higher amounts of potassium (K) than nitrogen when fertilising a paspalum lawn. Organic fertilisers are a good choice to use when fertilising this grass.

Remember that seashore paspalum does not grow well under high fertility regimes. In fact, too much fertiliser can cause excessive growth, which may result in problems with thatch accumulation, insects, and disease. The grass is also more prone to scalping since its growth rate will be high.


MOWING
Mowing has a significant effect on lawn appearance. The height of cut, frequency of mowing, and type of mower all have a major influence on your lawn's health and attractiveness. Fertility, soil moisture, and temperature determine the optimum mowing schedule. SeaIsle 1 should be maintained in a home lawn at a mowing height of 25mm - 50mm (1.0-2.0 inches). If using a rotary mower, mow at the higher height. Remember that it is imperative to keep the blade sharp, particularly with a rotary mower. Reel mowers will give a better cut, particularly when mowing at the lower height, but are not necessary for maintenance of a SeaIsle 1 lawn.
Mowing should begin as soon as the roots have pegged down into the soil, generally 7-14 days after planting. It is critical to bring the mowing height down very slowly and to not remove too much shoot tissue at any one mowing. Seashore paspalum does not recover very well from scalping, or removal of too much shoot tissue at any one time. Therefore, initial mowings should be at heights similar to the height maintained at the sod farm.
You can gradually reduce the mowing height over several mowing events or after the grass emerges from winter dormancy. During the summer, when the grass is growing vigorously, it will take longer to reduce the mowing height, unless you plan to mow more than once a week. Only remove 1/3 of the leaf canopy at any one mowing. Clippings can be left on the ground and will not contribute to thatch build-up.
Generally the higher the mowing height, the more open the canopy and the lower the mowing height, the tighter the canopy, resulting in minimal weed competition. Because of a tighter canopy, the lower mowing heights seem to overwinter better with prolonged cold temperatures than the higher mowing heights.


IRRIGATION
During Establishment:
Grass that has just been planted as sod has only a portion of its root system and is vulnerable to drought stress. To keep roots from drying out, irrigate two to three times a day for short periods for the first 4-7 days after planting. Then, irrigate once daily and apply 12mm (1/2") for another week or so. Gradually extend the number of days between irrigation events and apply 12mm - 25mm (1/2 - 1 inch) of water with each event. Four to five weeks after sodding, the grass should be irrigated once weekly in order to force the root system deeper into the soil. Root establishment can be determined by lifting a corner of sod and observing the root development. Learn to read the grass and its response to irrigation. Do not overwater this grass since this activity creates an ideal environment for pathogens and predisposes the grass to disease attack. The strategy is to gradually decrease the irrigation frequency until you can meet state-mandated water restrictions. Train the roots deep into the soil and this grass will exhibit excellent drought resistance. Under cloudy or cool conditions, you do not need to irrigate as frequently or with as much volume when compared to hot, dry, or humid conditions.

Established Turf:
Your goal now is to only irrigate the lawn when the grass is showing signs of drought stress. These signs include leaf blades folding in half, a blue-grey color, and footprints that remain visible long after being made. Make these visual assessments during the morning hours. The frequency and amount of irrigation to apply will depend on where you live, time of year, and general climatic conditions. Once you have identified the onset of drought stress, irrigate established seashore paspalum on a need-only basis. Check with our Sea Isle sales representatives by clicking here for irrigation recommendations for your area. The amount of evapotranspiration will usually dictate how often and how much irrigation water will be needed.
It is important not to overwater your lawn! Overwatering leads to a number of problems and is a leading factor in lawn decline. Less frequent, longer irrigation events on established turf provide the greatest benefit and increase the overall health of your lawn. Irrigate in the early morning hours so that leaf blades have a chance to dry out during the day. This reduces disease incidence and is better for the overall health of your lawn.

Use of alternative water sources:
Although seashore paspalum is tolerant of a wide range of irrigation water quality and salinity, and some effluent water can be used almost as if it were fresh water, soil or plant nutrient relationships can be affected by the use of alternate water sources. Therefore it is important that the homeowner seek advice on irrigation and salt mediation requirements specific to his area before deciding to use effluent or high saline irrigation water. It will not be unusual for the management requirements to vary within a subdivision community. In general, sandy soils will be easier to manage than heavy clay or silty soils, and higher rates of irrigation will be required when saline water is used for irrigation. Contact our Sea Isle sales representatives by clicking here for specific recommendations geared to your conditions. When irrigating with saline water you must take care to minimise the buildup of excess salts in the soil.

Irrigation during winter:
Irrigation may not be needed during the winter if your seashore paspalum is brown and dormant due to freezing temperatures. However, in some parts of the north, grass often goes semi-dormant, as evidenced by green leaves but little growth, because of cold temperatures and shorter daylengths. In this situation, it is recommended that when no rain has been received for a 2 to 3 week period, irrigation can be applied every 14 to 21 days to maintain root metabolic activity, to prevent cold temperature desiccation, and to enhance spring greenup.


WEED CONTROL
General:
A healthy turf that is fertilised, irrigated, and mowed properly will out-compete many weeds. However, any lawn may develop some weed pressure even with the best care. There are three basic types of weeds: broadleaf, grassy, or sedges. Each weed type requires a different product. Remember, the label is the law, so be sure to read and follow label instructions! Contact our Sea Isle sales representatives by clicking here for specific recommendations.

Broadleaf Weed Control:
There are a number of products that can effectively remove broadleaf weeds from seashore paspalum. These include Trimec Southern (make sure to use the Southern formulation!), Lontrel, or any of the Weed Be Gone products that are available in lawn and garden supply stores.

Grassy Weed Control:
There are fewer options for removing grassy weeds from seashore paspalum without also injuring the lawn. Professional pest control operators can choose from a wider range of chemicals, but even they have limited options for control of grassy weeds. Your best bet here is to apply a "preemergence" herbicide based on potential weeds you had last year. You need to know where the weedy areas are before you apply an herbicide, so take note of those areas when you see them and you will be ready to deal with them the following spring. Contact our Sea Isle sales representatives by clicking here or visit Jimboomba Turf Group website to identify the weeds and to determine when their germination times occur in your area. Timing of preemerge herbicide applications can often be keyed to soil temperatures or night temperatures. Products that can be safely used for this type of weed control on seashore paspalum include Halts and Ronstar.

Sedge Control:
Products that can safely be used for sedge control include Manage or Image.

Using salt to control weeds:
Since seashore paspalum is tolerant of salts, spot applications of rock salt can be helpful. Cover the weed with a white coating of salt, but do not turn on the irrigation system. Let the morning dew gradually dissolve the salt and slowly desiccate the weed. The idea is to kill the weed without injuring or burning the lawn. The salt will at the same time furnish micronutrients to the turf.


INSECT/DISEASE CONTROL
Seashore paspalum has problems with a few insect pests in some environments. These insects can include sod webworms, fall armyworms, billbugs, and mole crickets. If you notice insect damage, there are a number of products available that can safely treat the insects without harming the lawn. Contact our Sea Isle sales representatives by clicking here or visit Jimboomba Turf Group website for more information on insect identification and control. Timing of application is usually the key to effective control.
Disease problems are also seen in paspalum, depending on the environment, the amount of fertiliser applied, and the presence of environmental stresses. Scalping the lawn, or removing too much leaf tissue at any one time, is a primary source of stress that may induce disease. Problems may also arise from over or underwatering during establishment, which can weaken the grass and make it more vulnerable. It is important first to determine the disease or organism, then to apply a fungicide, if appropriate, to arrest the disease and, finally, to take proper steps to deal with the environmental condition that may have contributed to it in the first place. Contact our Sea Isle sales representatives by clicking here or visit Jimboomba Turf Group website for more information on disease diagnosis and control measures.

SOURCES AND LINKS
These management suggestions have been compiled from the following sources:

Seashore Paspalum website: www.griffin.peachnet.edu/cssci/turf/paspalum/paspalum.htm

SeaIsle 1 website: www.seaisle 1.com

GA Cooperative Extension Turfgrass website: www.georgiaturf.com

Seashore Paspalum, the Environmental Turfgrass, by R.R. Duncan and R.R. Carrow, Clock Tower Press, 2000.

For their kind assistance in developing this article we extend thanks to R. R. Duncan, Ph.D., Professor of Turfgrass Breeding (Paspalum, Tall Fescue) and Stress Physiology, Crop and Soil Sciences Department, University of Georgia, Griffin, Laurie E. Trenholm, Ph.D., Assistant Professor/ Extension Turfgrass Specialist, Urban Turfgrass Program University of Florida, and Earl Elsner, Ph.D., retired Director of the Georgia Seed Development Commission